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THE journey west begins in Kanchanaburi, a scenic province where eco-tourism runs wild in the province's northern mountains. Here there are superb national parks, two massive dams -- Khao Laem and Sri Nakharin -- forming reservoirs that attract visitors to their rafts and small bungalows, plus rivers, waterfalls and caves throughout the forests.

However, Kanchanaburi is better known internationally from the war-time construction of the Bridge on the River Kwai and the railway to Burma. Visitors come to see the Bridge, where every December the TAT runs a spectacular light and sound presentation, and pay respects at the war cemeteries and museum. You can catch an old steam train for a trip along the old tracks to Namtok station.

North of the station, the Australians have built a superb museum above Hellfire Pass, depicting what happened to the PoWs during the war. The infamous pass itself is hauntingly quiet, a silent tribute to courage.

The town itself has good accommodation, with numerous riverside restaurants around the bridge. Here you can enjoy the province's famed fish or relax watching the river rafts float by.

Moving south, the town of Phetchaburi is known for its old temples with faded examples of murals dating from the Ayutthaya period. Above the town, King Mongkut built Phra Nakhon Khiri summer palace and observatory on Khao Wang. The palace has been renovated, and turned into a fascinating national museum, which is accessible by cable car.

At the royal seaside resort of Hua Hin, visitors have to play the country's oldest golf course, Royal Hua Hin, built in 1924. It winds its way around the hillside next to the railway station, on which sits a wonderful waiting room built solely for the king.

Hua Hin is a relaxing resort, a former fishing village that has kept its sedate nature. The main beach is a curving expanse of fine sand leading to Khao Takiab (Chopstick Hill). Next to the fishing pier are popular restaurants serving every kind of fresh seafood, while everyone walks around the Night Market in the town centre, a sort of meeting place to talk and buy snacks.

The Royal Family has a summer palace in the town, Klai Kangwon, with beautiful gardens which are open to the public when royalty is not in residence. Within the Rama 6 Army Camp is the elegant teak summer palace of Maruekkataiyawan, built for King Vajiravudh with a special hall for performing plays the King loved so much. The palace has been restored for visitors with an elevated walkway leading to the sea.

While the sea is the main influence in Hua Hin, those looking for adventure can try Thailand's largest national park of Kaeng Krachan, a huge expanse of forest that leads to the Myanmar border. There's plenty of exploration opportunities by foot or 4WD, but guides are advised. The less active can just relax at the restaurant next to the park reservoir.

South of Hua Hin is the Khao Sam Roi Yot (300 Peaks) National Park, a wetland area packed with bird and animal life. Trekkers can explore the area, visit the famous Phraya Nakhon cave, where an elegant pavilion was built for King Chulalongkorn, or take a boat ride along Khao Daeng canal.