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THE mountains and forests of northern Thailand are a frequent reminder of how beautiful nature can be. Here are pristine areas where elephants and wild animals still roam, where numerous ethnic hill peoples live unchanged lives in isolated upland communities. While the cosmopolitan cities of Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai provide fascinating attractions and excellent accommodation for visitors.

Chiang Mai is the northern capital, a city over 700 years old, where the moats and old walls provide fascination for visitors. Inside the small lanes of the old town, peaceful old temples proudly display the beauty of a bygone age. Wat Chedi Luang houses the city pillar, symbol of Chiang Mai's spiritual strength, while the glorious main chedi, whose spire was demolished by an earthquake in the 16th century, dominates the compound.

Nearby Wat Phra Singh contains superb examples of northern art, with exquisite carved teak embellishing the main chapel and library. Towering over the city is Doi Suthep and the revered temple at its peak, which offers superb views of the city. Further up the slope Phuping Palace is usually awash in flowers, with the palace open to the public when the Royal Family is not in residence.

At night, Chiang Mail bustles with activity, mainly centred around the famed Night Bazaar, full of shops, pubs and restaurants. If its shopping you want, however, drive down the road to Sankamphaeng, known as Handicraft Highway. All along the road are little cottage industries manufacturing great handicrafts such as painted umbrellas, carved wood and silver, lacquerware and silk. Stop and watch them being made; you can usually buy at bargain prices.

Outside the city, elephants are a principle attraction, with many elephant camps in the Mae Sa and Mae Taeng valleys, or further north at the famed Chiang Dao camp. All offer shows and chances to trek through nearby forest. South of Chiang Mai, at Lampang is the irresistable Elephant Conservation Centre, containing an animal hospital and training school for young elephants.

By comparison, Chiang Rai is a small, sedate town beside the Kok River. But the mountainous province bordering Myanmar has lots of interesting things to do. At the border town of Mae Sai, for instance, you can actually cross into Myanmar on a day pass for a little shopping. The hills of Doi Tung have been turned into a royal project of handicrafts, fruit and vegetable growing by the late Princess Mother. Her royal residence, in the style of a Swiss chalet, is open to visitors, as are the spectacular floral gardens beneath her window.

At the northernmost tip of the province, where Thailand, Myanmar and Laos converge is the Golden Triangle, a once notorious opium area, now a major tourist attraction. The luxury hotels nearby are an excellent starting point for exploring the countryside, visiting nearby hilltribes, or cruising along the Mekong River.

Before leaving the North, sit down -- literally -- to a khan toke dinner, typical northern-style dishes eaten with sticky rice while sitting on the floor.