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NORTHEASTERN Thailand is a large elevated plateau, an ancient land where prehistoric man and dinosaurs once strode, and where timeless Khmer ruins and revered temples stand testament to the region's great history.

The road into the Northeast winds through Pak Chong to Nakhon Ratchasima, also known as Korat, passing the major golf courses listed in this Directory, only two to three hours from Bangkok. Small hotels offer accommodation near the courses, while Korat and its luxury hotels is an excellent base for discovering the beauty of the region.

Nearby Khao Yai National Park is Thailand's oldest and best known park, offering opportunities to study bird and animal life, or evening safaris to see the elephants. The park has been well mapped, with numerous hiking trails and vantage points well marked.

The Northeast was also once part of the ancient Khmer empire, and ruins of temples and shrines (called prasat or castle) abound through the area. The most famous and best preserved is probably Phimai, now a historical park just outside Korat. Its sandstone walls guard the restored sanctuary, with its stunning prang and carved lintels.

A second superb example of Khmer sanctuary -- and probably more dramatic because of the longs steps leading up to it -- is at Phanom Rung is Buri Ram, perched on top of an extinct volcano. Both sanctuaries pre-date Angkor Wat, and the Tourism Authority of Thailand periodically produces outstanding light and sound shows to highlight their history.

The Northeast is famous for its cottage silk industry, particularly that of mudmee or ikat, the tie-dyed designs using natural colours. In Pak Thongchai, just south of Korat, you can see the silk made and designed in small factories.

The road east runs along the Cambodian border through Surin to Ubon Ratchathani, located on the Moon River, where the famous Candle Festival pays ingenious tribute to the beginning of Buddhist lent, thanks to superbly carved beeswax vistas that are paraded around town.

Surin attracts visitors every year to see its famed international Elephant round-up each November. Villagers here have a long tradition of working with elephants, and tourists should take time to visit Ban Ta Klang to see how these great beasts live, and are trained, within the village.

North from Korat is Khon Kaen, the administrative centre of the region, and centre of a great silk industry. Just north of Khon Kaen, in Phu Wiang National Park, the remains of dinosaurs have been uncovered, now on display at this fascinating site.

Prehistoric remains were also unearthed at Ban Chiang in Udon Thani proving that ancient civilisation existed in this area more than 6,000 years ago. The dig and its famous pottery are on display in an open museum.

The road ends at Nong Khai on the Mekong River, facing Laos, which can now be accessed via the Friendship Bridge. Along the banks of this mighty waterway, ancient temples pay tribute to peoples living here for hundred of years. The most famous is That Phanom in Nakhon Phanom, the Northeast's most revered sanctuary, where structures built on structures have obscured its ancestry.

Before leaving the Northeast, don't forget to sample its spicy cuisine, made famous by sticky rice and som tam, a fiery raw papaya salad; and listen to the lively sounds of northeastern folk music.